Mihonoseki: A Quiet Port Town for Digital Detox at the Eastern Edge of Shimane
I’m Junko — a Tokyo-based writer and guide exploring Japan through culture and travel. Today, I’d like to introduce Mihonoseki (Google Map) in Shimane Prefecture, one of Japan’s quietest and most culturally rich port towns.
Overview
Mihonoseki is a quiet port town on the border of Shimane and Tottori Prefectures.
Deeply connected to the mythology of Izumo Taisha, it has long been known as a spiritual gateway to the Sea of Japan. Shaped by its long fishing history and now known for its slow rhythms and unobstructed ocean views, Mihonoseki is an ideal destination for digital detox and long, unhurried stays.
What to See
The townscape is one of Mihonoseki’s greatest charms.
Traditional wooden houses line the narrow streets, and the harbor reflects the blue of the sky in a way that feels almost nostalgic, even to first-time visitors. On clear days, you can even see Mount Daisen rising across the water — a sight that locals say never fails to lift their spirits.
At the heart of the town stands Miho Shrine, dedicated to Ebisu—the deity of good fortune and the sea. The shrine has existed since at least the 8th century. Traditionally, visiting only Izumo Taisha was considered “incomplete,” and the two shrines have long been worshipped together.
For my trip, I visited Izumo Taisha in the morning and then traveled—by train and by car—to Miho Shrine later that same day. I wasn’t able to attend, but the shrine conducts ritual ceremonies at 8:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., each about thirty minutes long.
Ao-ishidatami Dori, a narrow stone-paved lane, is one of Mihonoseki’s most picturesque spots. Traditional wooden houses line the path—some still lived in, others vacant, and a few renovated for long-term visitors. On rainy days, the stones take on a subtle blue hue, giving the street a serene, distinctive beauty.
Mihonoseki is also said to be a place visited by Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo), who was drawn to remote corners of Japan and their folklore.
How to Get There
Mihonoseki is surprisingly accessible despite its remote atmosphere.
- From Yonago Airport: about 20-30 minutes by car
- From Matsue City: also reachable by car (40-45 minutes) or local buses (operated hourly by the Ichibata Bus Company on the Manbara Line).
For travelers without a vehicle, it’s best to plan carefully and check with your accommodation for advice on local transportation. While they may not always be able to arrange transport, they can often point you toward the most reliable options. Some travelers even arrive at Sakaiminato Port with a bicycle and enjoy riding to Mihonoseki or toward the foothills of Mount Daisen.
Because public transport is limited, a car is essential if you wish to explore beyond the immediate harbor area. However, this isolation is part of what makes the town so suitable for one-week to one-month retreats—perfect for writing, working remotely, or simply living at a slower pace.
Where to Stay
Fukuman-kan (website) dates back to 1717, but the current building is a modern concrete structure with tatami-matted rooms. Guest rooms are on the third and fourth floors, with the dining area on the second. A few rooms offer views of the sea, adding an understated sense of luxury to this simple, traditional setting. Despite its modern construction, the inn retains a nostalgic charm that reflects its long history.
Personal Experience
I visited Mihonoseki just after the week when the gods are said to gather in Izumo for Kamiari-zuki. The town was calm, the air crisp, and the sea a deep winter blue.
My room at Fukuman-kan was on the fourth floor, with a clear view of the harbor and the mountains across the water. The view from the window was especially beautiful in winter.
Both dinner and breakfast were traditional Japanese meals, and because it was crab season, the evening meal included seasonal dishes featuring local seafood. Meals are served at tables with chairs, which is a relief for those who prefer not to sit on the floor.
One detail that surprised me: a copy of the Kojiki (Japan’s oldest surviving chronicle) was placed in the guest room. Given that Mihonoseki is a center of Ebisu worship, it felt meaningful to read these myths while staying in such a spiritually rooted place. Since the Kojiki can be challenging to read, especially in English, it’s worth asking the inn staff or local residents to share the local myths. Their stories make the traditions feel much more accessible.
The inn has two family-style private baths, one larger and one smaller. They’re not hot springs, but the warm water relaxes you deeply. After soaking, the warmth stayed with me in the cold December night, and I slept incredibly well—a kind of restorative sleep I associate with tranquil coastal towns in winter.
Mihonoseki is a place where time moves slowly. If you’re looking for a quiet retreat, a cultural study trip, or simply a place to reset both mind and body, this small port town may be exactly what you need. It may not have the obvious excitement of urban destinations, but Mihonoseki offers a more subtle kind of richness—one that stays with you long after you leave.
